Walkers can explore the dramatically eroded red landscape around Yegen on the Sendero Gerald Brenan, a 1.9km signposted trail – there's a map of the route on the main plaza. The walk might only take an hour or so but it provides quite a workout as it plunges steeply into a gorge towards the Peñón del Fuerte, a giant rock platform that once supported an 11th-century fortress, and back up the other side.

The route, which starts by Brenan's former home, is said to have been one of the author's favourites when he lived in the village from 1920 to 1934.