The city is heaving with restaurants, many aimed squarely at tourists. For a good range of choices, head for Calle Alfonso X el Sabio and the surrounding pedestrian streets, including Calle de los Alfileritos and Calle de la Sillería. Restaurants close very early (for Spain) midweek.

Feature: Marzipan

Not a marzipan fan? Think again. You probably won't have tasted it so good anywhere else. Toledo is famed for this wonderful almond-based confectionery, which every shop seems to sell. The Santo Tomé marzipan brand is highly regarded and there are several outlets in town, including one on Plaza de Zocodover. Even the local nuns get in on the marzipan act; most of the convents sell the sweets.