Some great jai alai (Basque pelota) players hail from this region, and the sport is still alive and well, though you need to know where to look. One place where you can get a primer is Miruaitz Taberna in Mutriku. This humble cafe is the epicentre of the fast-moving Basque sport. The owner is a former talent who played for the pros in the US (hence the great English spoken here); today he coaches the next generation. If you're around on a Friday night, you can even catch a game.