Introduction

While most white towns sought protection atop lofty crags, the people of Setenil de las Bodegas (14km southeast of Olvera) did the opposite and burrowed into the dark caves beneath the steep cliffs of the Río Trejo. Clearly, the strategy worked: it took the Christian armies a 15-day siege to dislodge the Moors from their well-defended positions in 1484. Many of the town's original cave-houses remain, some converted into bars and restaurants, and Setenil is now an increasingly popular day trip from the Ronda and Grazalema areas.