Welcome to Road to La Oliva
About 7km south of La Matilla and 1km beyond the village of Tefía along the FV-207 is the Ecomuseo la Alcogida, a restored agricultural hamlet complete with furnished houses, outbuildings and domestic animals (though the chained-up dogs have a troubling un-eco feel). Overall, it’s an interesting glimpse into the tough rural life of the not-too-distant past, with local artisans working in some of the settlement’s buildings making lace and wicker baskets. There are explanations in English, plus a gift shop and bar.
West on the FV-211 from Tefía leads to Los Molinos. This is another lovely drive with the road curving around low-lying hills with isolated lofty palms and herds of goats. On the way you can’t miss the old windmill used to grind cereals for the production of gofio, sitting squat across from a distinctive white-domed observatory.
The road continues to wind its way over the crest of the hill before descending dramatically beside a gaping gorge to tiny Los Molinos. Expect just a few simple houses overlooking a small grey-stone beach with cliff trails to the east and plenty of goats, geese and stray cats. If you do stop here, make a point of having a seafood meal at beachside Restaurante Casa Pon while gazing over Atlantic breakers.
A couple of kilometres north of Los Molinos, along a rough track, lies the Playa de la Mujer, an enticing stretch of sand, particularly popular with surfers.
If you're following the FV-10 rather than the coastal route, look out for the impressively located statue of Miguel de Unamuno part way up Montaña Quemado – a place the writer once said he would like to be buried.
Bus 7 from Puerto del Rosario to El Cotillo passes through Tetir, La Matilla and Tindaya three times daily. Bus 2 (€1.70, 20 minutes, twice daily), between Puerto del Rosario and Vega de Río Palmas, passes by Tefía. There are no buses to Los Molinos, but it is a well-surfaced, scenic road if you are driving.