About 20km south of Caleta de Fuste is one of Fuerteventura's most pristine fishing hamlets, Pozo Negro. The 5km drive towards the coast from the FV-2 is stunning and you’ll probably pass a lot of walkers en route. Palm plantations, green meadows, herds of goats and craggy peaks typify the scenery. Along the way, look out for signs to Poblado de La Atalayita, a pre-Hispanic settlement with a small information centre. The centre was closed when we visited, but the volcanic-rock ruins are worth the short dirt road detour to have a look if you're hereabouts.
The tiny fishing community of Pozo Negro is the antithesis of Caleta de Fuste; there are just a cluster of cottages, some brightly painted fishing boats and two popular seafood restaurants, with little to choose between them in the fresh-fish stakes. Both specialise in paella and have terraces overlooking the pebble beach. Pozo Negro is popular with windsurfers, but you'll need your own gear.