For the family-friendly saunter around the Roques de García you won’t need anything other than comfortable shoes and some warm clothes. For anything more ambitious, though, you’ll need proper walking boots and poles, warm clothes, some food and water and a map and compass. If you’re intending to climb Teide or Pico Viejo in the winter, when thick snow is common, you’ll need full winter hiking gear including thick fleeces, a waterproof jacket, gloves and a hat, and sunglasses. Poles are an essential item and on some routes crampons wouldn’t go amiss either. There are very strict rules about where you can and cannot walk in the park and you must keep to the marked trails at all times (though some of these can be very vague on the less-frequented high-altitude trails). Most importantly don’t underestimate Teide: this might not be the Himalayas but it’s still a serious mountain (especially in the winter) and its ocean setting means that the weather here can change unbelievably fast, sometimes forcing the sudden closure of the cable car (a serious issue for hikers ascending the mountain and expecting a ride back down).

Practical Tip: Climbing to the Summit – The Paperwork

The key to climbing the summit from the top of the cable car is to plan ahead. There’s a permit scheme in force that restricts the number of visitors who can climb to the summit to 150 a day. You can reserve your place online using www.reservasparquesnacionales.es (follow the links through to the Parque Nacional del Teide). You can make a reservation up to 2pm the day before you want to climb (as long as spaces are available!).

Should you really feel the need to make life hard for yourself, it’s also possible to make the application in person or by post via the Parque Nacional del Teide Administrative Offices of the national park in La Orotava.

You can choose from several two-hour slots per day in which to make your final ascent to the summit. In addition to the permit, take your passport or ID with you on the walk, as you’ll probably be asked to produce it, and don’t miss your allotted slot or you won’t be allowed beyond the barrier.

Note that bad weather conditions can mean the closure of the summit for weeks at a time. The website has details of any such closures and when they next expect it to be open to hikers.

From the cable car it’s about a one-hour walk to the summit.

Guided Hikes

Park rangers host free guided walks around the mountain in both Spanish and English. The pace is gentle and there are frequent information pauses. Even though you’ll huff and puff rather more than usual because of the high altitude, the walks are suitable for anyone of reasonable fitness (including children aged over 10).

Groups leave at 9.15am and 1.30pm from the visitor centre at El Portillo, and at 9.30am and 1pm from the visitor centre at Cañada Blanca. Walks last about two hours. Groups are small, so it is essential to reserve a place in advance by contacting the Parque Nacional del Teide Administrative Offices.

Self-Guided Hikes

The general park visitor guide lists 21 walks, ranging in length from 600m to 17.6km, some of which are signposted. Each walk is graded according to its level of difficulty (ranging from ‘low’ – the most common – to ‘extreme’). You’re not allowed to stray from the marked trails, a sensible restriction in an environment where every tuft of plant life has to fight for survival.

You don’t have to be a masochist to enjoy the challenge of walking from road level up to La Rambleta at the top of the cable car, followed by a zoom down in the lift, but neither should you take this walk lightly. People unused to serious hiking will find this a very strenuous walk. Get off the bus (request the driver to stop) or leave your car at the small road-side parking area (signposted ‘Montaña Blanca’ and ‘Refugio de Altavista’) 8km south of the El Portillo visitor centre and set off along the 4WD track that leads uphill. En route, you can make a short (half-hour, at the most), almost-level detour along a clear path to the rounded summit of Montaña Blanca (2750m), from where there are splendid views of Las Cañadas and the sierra beyond. For the full ascent to La Rambleta, allow about five hours (one way). If you’re intending on taking the cable car back down, it’s vital that you allow sufficient time (and have enough food supplies) to walk back down the mountain if the cable car has to close early. Alternatively, make the Montaña Blanca your more modest goal for the day and then head back down again (about 2½ hours for the round trip).

Another long but relatively gentle route is the 16km Las Siete Cañadas between the two visitor centres, which, depending on your pace, will take between four and five hours (note that you’ll need transport waiting for you at the end of this walk).

Maybe the most spectacular, and certainly the hardest, walk in the park is the climb to the summit of Pico Viejo, then along the ridge that connects this mountain to Teide and then up to the summit of Teide. Allow at least nine hours for this hike (one way) and be prepared to walk back down Teide again if the cable car is closed. In fact, for this walk it’s actually better to walk to the Refugio de Altavista at 3270m on the first day, overnight there and then continue your ascent to the summit of Teide the following morning as this will allow you most of the second day to descend Teide on foot if required.