Introduction

About 2km southwest from Portals Nous' elite yacht harbour is a whole other world. Palmanova and Magaluf have merged to form what is the epitome of the sea, sand, sunburn, sangria and shagging resort that has unfairly coloured perceptions of Mallorca in general. But the real Wild West days are substantially over: civic investment and new public order laws have managed to rein in the worst of the bacchanalian behaviour.

If you crave peace, head south of Magaluf to explore a couple of pretty calas (coves). Cala Vinyes has placid water, and the sand stretches inland among residential buildings. The next cove, Cala de Cap Falcó, is an emerald lick of an inlet surrounded by tree-covered rocky coast. Unfortunately, developers are getting closer and closer. Follow signs south for Sol de Mallorca and then the signs for each of these locations. Bus 107 from Palma reaches Cala Vinyes via Magaluf.