Where most other fine-dining experiences centre on innovation, Zalacaín is a bastion of tradition, with a refined air and loyal following. The pig’s trotters filled with mushrooms and lamb is a house speciality, as is the lobster salad. The wine list is purported to be one of the city's best (with an estimated 35,000 bottles and 1200 different varieties). Reservations required.
Everyone who’s anyone in Madrid, from the king down, has eaten here since the doors opened in 1973; it was the first restaurant in Spain to receive three Michelin stars – it now has one. You should certainly dress to impress (men will need a tie and a jacket).
A major 2017 renovation has brought the atmosphere up a notch, but little else has changed, about which Madrid's great and good breathed a huge sigh of relief.