This fine old Madrid taberna (tavern) is famous for its croquettes, fine jamón, montaditos de jamón (small rolls of cured ham) and montaditos de bonito (small rolls of cured tuna) in the bar, while out the back the more classic cuisine includes rabo de toro estofado (bull’s tail, served with honey, cinnamon, mashed potato and pastry with herbs; €21).

Madrid’s notoriously fussy diners generally accept that the prices here are worth it. The sister restaurant around the corner in Plaza de Oriente, La Mar del Alabardero, is renowned for its high-quality seafood and rice dishes.