This is one of Madrid’s oldest and most beautiful markets, within the early 20th-century glass walls, the market is an inviting space strewn with tables. You can order tapas and sometimes more substantial plates at most of the counter-bars, and everything here (from caviar to chocolate) is as tempting as the market is alive.

All the stalls are outstanding, but you could begin with the fine fishy pintxos atop mini toasts at La Casa de Bacalao (Stalls 16–17), follow it up with some jamón or other cured meats at Carrasco Guijuelo (Stall 18), cheeses at Stalls 20–21, all manner of pickled goodies at Stall 22, or the gourmet tapas of Lhardy (Stalls 61–62). There are also plenty of places to buy wine, Asturian cider and the like; at Stall 24, The Sherry Corner has sherry tastings with tapas.