Lucio has been wowing madrileños with his light touch, quality ingredients and home-style local cooking since 1974 – think eggs (a Lucio speciality) and roasted meats in abundance. There’s also rabo de toro (bull’s tail) during the Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador and plenty of rioja (red wine) to wash away the mere thought of it.

The lunchtime guisos del día (stews of the day), including cocido on Wednesdays, are also popular. Casa Lucio draws an august, well-dressed crowd, which has included the former king of Spain, former US president Bill Clinton and Penélope Cruz.