The choice of restaurants in Las Palmas reflects its stylish big-city feel. For the most atmosphere, head to the Vegueta and Triana barrios. Over at the other end of the city, with a couple of exceptions, the restaurants on the beachfront tend to be multifarious places with multilingual menus and below-par food, but venture a street or two back and you'll find old-school Spanish restaurants and characterful tapas bars.

Ruta de las tapas

On Thursday evenings, Calle Mendizabal in Vegueta is a top spot for meeting locals – and other travellers – and partaking in a bit of a tapas crawl. You can enjoy a small beer and a tapa for €2 in a number of bars along this strip. You will need follow-on food plans as portions are tiny; it's more about socialising than eating, but it's a great way to get a feel for the Canarian al fresco lifestyle. The fun starts at 8pm.