Tucked away on the narrow streets north of Plaza del Arenal are a few wine, beer and copas (drinks) bars, while, northeast of the centre, Plaza de Canterbury has a couple of pubs popular with a 20-something crowd. Jerez' tabancos are busy drinking spots.

Feature: The Great Tabanco Revival

Sprinkled across the city centre, Jerez' famous old tabancos are, essentially, simple taverns serving sherry from the barrel. Most date from the early 20th century and, although tabanco comes from the fusion of tabaco (tobacco) and estanco (tobacco shop), the focus is indisputably the local plonk (ie sherry). In danger of dying out just a few years ago, Jerez' tabancos have sprung back to life as fashionable modern-day hang-outs, reinvigorated by keen new ownership and frequented by crowds of stylish young jerezanos as much as old-timers. Several stage regular flamenco (though you’re just as likely to catch an impromptu performance) and some now offer sherry tastings. All are fantastic, cheap, down-to-earth places to get a real feel for Jerez – fino in hand.

The tourist office hands out information on the official Ruta de los Tabancos de Jerez (www.facebook.com/rutadelostabancosdejerez), though there are plenty of other places, too. Suddenly, every other bar is calling itself a tabanco!