Creating a stark, at times lunar-like, landscape, the volcanoes in this area are the newest in the archipelago and are the main draw of Fuencaliente. The beauty of their low, ruddy cones belies the violence with which they erupted while the dark and hard fields of lava form a severe and largely barren landscape that contrasts with the soft blue of the sea.
The volcanic coast around Fuencaliente is largely inaccessible, much of it lined with banana plantations, rocky outcrops and steep cliffs. Two pleasant exceptions are Playa de la Zamora and Playa Chica, black-sand beaches tucked side by side in coves. They’re no secret but are rarely crowded, so you may find them quiet. To get here, take the Carretera de Las Indias (LP-209) past Volcán San Antonio towards the hamlet of Las Indias. Follow the curves downhill until a small sign indicates a turn-off for the playas (beaches) to the right.