Audacious is the word for the bold experimentation of leading Spanish chef Angel León, whose seafood-biased nueva cocina has won a cavalcade of awards, transforming Aponiente into Andalucía's first triple-Michelin-starred restaurant. Occupying a design-led 19th-century tide mill, Aponiente splits opinion in traditional El Puerto. Some snort at its pretension, others salivate at the thought of its uber-imaginative 21-course tasting menus.
Aponiente is 1.5km northeast of the centre. For a tapas-sized, town-centre taster of the Aponiente magic, dine at creative sister venture La Taberna del Chef del Mar.