If you have time, it's worth exploring away from the major villages and seek out some smaller ones. Ares, 30km south of Morella, is one of the most spectacular, hanging over a cliff. Around 13km from here, Vilafranca (del Cid) has a museum – the excellent Museo de la Pedra en Sec – that explores its dry-stone-wall tradition. If there's no one there, ask in the tourist office opposite. And don't miss some stunning spots over the border in Teruel province; Cantavieja is one of the prettiest villages.