This place has recently overhauled its decor. Now a curious mix of old Spanish charm and contemporary flair, public areas remain dominated by heavily gilded furniture, porcelain cherubs, dripping chandeliers and a sweeping staircase. Rates soar on weekends in February and March, when people flock here for the ritual slaughter (matanza) of pigs, after which diners indulge in all-you-can-eat feasts.
The matanza costs €45 per head – not bad for one of the more unusual dining experiences. There's even a pig museum. The hotel also has a good restaurant, as well as a cafeteria for lighter meals.
Situated in the renowned Plaza Mayor, just 150 metres from the Gothic cathedral, the hotel is a former chemists' and the mill of the old hospital. Rooms at the Hotel II Virrey feature elegant décor and hardwood floors. Each one has a flat-screen TV and a minibar. The hotel's award-winning restaurant, Virrey Palafox, under Chef Felix Martinez Soto, is renowned in Castilla-León. The cuisine is based on high-quality local produce and it has a large wine cellar. The Jornadas Rito-Gastronómicas de la Matanza are hosted at this restaurant. This event takes place at weekends in January, February and March. It involves thousands of people tasting regional specials. Hotel II Virrey offers free parking for bicycles and motorbikes.