Many pilgrims avoid this stretch of the Camino and take the bus, which is a pity as they are missing out on the subtle and ever-changing play of colours on the meseta (plateau). Contrary to popular opinion, it is not flat. Villages here are set low in long valleys, with occasional rivers, which rise up to the high barren plains.

There are large limestone rocks everywhere, and evocative sights, such as flocks of sheep led by solitary shepherds and isolated adobe villages. The path passes via Castrojeriz, with its castle dominating the town, while in better-known Frómista is the Iglesia de San Martín, one of the jewels of early Spanish Romanesque architecture.

Between Carrión de los Condes and Calzadilla de la Cueza, the Camino coincides with a stretch of Roman road. Further on is Sahagún, which, despite appearances, was an immensely powerful and wealthy Benedictine centre by the 12th century; the Mudéjar-influenced brick Romanesque churches merit a visit.

Before reaching León, the Camino becomes monotonous, running through a long series of villages along paved, busy roads.