If you come in summer, you won’t be alone. Legions of buses and fleets of pleasure boats disgorge battalions of tourists. It's a different world to Sa Calobra on a quiet, bright midwinter morning. From the northern end of the road a short trail leads around the coast to a rocky river gorge, the Torrent de Pareis, and a small white-pebble cove with fabulous (but usually crowded) swimming spots.

To flee for some peace and quiet, nip down a turn-off west to reach restful and gorgeous Cala Tuent.