Carles Abellan, master of the now-defunct Comerç 24 in La Ribera, runs this basement tapas haven known for its gourmet versions of old faves. Specials include the bikini (toasted ham and cheese sandwich – here the ham is cured and the truffle makes all the difference) and a thick black arròs negre de sípia (squid-ink black rice).

The inventive McFoie-Burger is fantastic and, for dessert, choose xocolata amb pa, sal i oli (delicious balls of chocolate in olive oil with a touch of salt and wafer). You can’t book but it's worth the wait.