You might not notice the modest entrance to this delicious relic, where serious waiters deliver all sorts of seafood and rice dishes to your table, from arròs a la milanesa (savoury rice with chicken, pork and a light cheese gratin) to a bullit de lluç (slice of white hake boiled with herb-laced rice and a handful of clams).

Head for the 1950s time-warp dining room out the back.