This old-time locals’ bar is what Hemingway meant by a ‘clean, well-lighted place’. Sidle up to the bar or pull up a little wooden chair and tuck into good-value tapas from the bar, washed down by a few cold darughts of Moritz. The bunyols de bacallà are delightful battered balls of cod that demand to be gobbled up.

The place is full to bursting most of the time. Time it right, and you can enjoy a first-rate paella (served only on Thursdays at lunchtime).