More than anything else, it is the setting and the hearty welcome that make this 11th-century estate (complete with the remains of a defensive tower) worth the excursion. Try for a table in the former cellars or on the garden terrace.

Grilled meats dominate the menu, though you'll also find decent appetisers, and seasonal dishes like artichokes fired up on the grill and calçots (wild spring onions) in winter.