It’s getting a foot in the door of this legendary fish restaurant that’s the problem – there can be queues out into the square. And if you want one of the five tables out the back, you’ll need to call ahead. Most people are happy elbowing their way to the bar for some of the tastiest seafood tapas in town.

Pep recommends cloïsses amb pernil (clams and ham) or the trifàsic (combo of calamari, whitebait and prawns). The restaurant's other pièce de résistance is a supersmooth tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette) and tuna tartare.