For tapas, raciones, wine and cheap lunch menus, hit the streets west of Plaza de María Pita – Calles de la Franja, Barrera, Galera, Olmos and Estrella. Moving westward along these lanes the vibe mutates from old-style mesones (eating houses) and tabernas (taverns) to contemporary tapas bars.

Restaurants for more substantial sit-down meals are dotted all around the central areas.