Chang Hwa Dang

Dumplings in Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

Crowds come to Ikseon-dong to be transported to old Seoul, and half of them seem to queue at Chang Hwa Dang, where the furniture and decor hark to a lost Korea of the 1980s. Four types of fried mandu (Korean-style dumplings) come on a mixed plate. The charcoal-meat dumplings are the most flavourful and pair well with the house tteokbokki (rice cakes in a sweet and spicy sauce).

From the subway exit, head down the opposite laneway into Ikseon-dong and take the first right.