Tell any Korean you're going to Jeollanam-do and they'll tell you to enjoy the food. Of particular note are seafood dishes: specialities include seodae-hoe (서대회, thin slices of raw fish marinated in makgeolli vinegar and chilli paste) in Yeosu and nakji tangtangi (낙지탕탕이; chopped live octopus) in Mokpo. The brave can sample hongeo samhap (홍어삼합; fermented skate, pork belly and kimchi) on Heuksando; with its notorious ammonia scent, skate draws a distinct line between lovers and haters.