Arriving in Hargeisa, spend your first day getting oriented and soaking up the atmosphere. On your second day visit the livestock market early in the morning and take an overnight trip via Las Geel – Somaliland’s touristic pièce de résistance – to the port of Berbera. Wander the streets of Berbera’s character-filled old town, check out Baathala beach and end the day feasting on fresh fish. Day three should see you returning to the capital.
Having enjoyed Hargeisa, Las Geel and Berbera at a more relaxed pace, go where few are bold enough to attempt and book a trip to the Sanaag province. Devote at least four days to Erigavo, Daallo Forest and Maydh. Alternatively, you could explore the far west of the country and arrange a 4WD trip to the historic port of Zeila, taking in the rock art sites of Dhagax Khoure and Dhagax Marodi, Borama and the Giriyad Plains before reaching the coast – from Hargeisa, this is a five-day expedition (return).