The secluded Lož Valley (Loška Dolina), southeast of Cerknica, is a green and tranquil taste of rural Slovenia. In summer look out for its trademark ostrnice (tall slender haystacks) in mowed meadows. There's also a world-class cave experience and a stirring castle to visit. But the main reason to come here is one of the best chances in Europe to see brown bears – we saw them right by the roadside between Grahovo and Žerovnica, as well as on a bear-watching safari from Lož.