The capital of Bela Krajina and its largest town, Črnomelj (pronounced cher-no-ml) is on a promontory in a loop where the Lahinja and Dobličica rivers meet. This is the ‘folk heart’ of Bela Krajina, and its popular Jurjevanje festival attracts hundreds of dancers and singers from the region. For the rest of the year, Črnomelj presses the snooze button and goes back to sleep. The town itself has little to make you linger but it's a gateway to scenic surrounds.

Legend has it that Črnomelj (a corruption of the words for ‘black miller’) got its name when a beggar, dissatisfied with the quality of the flour she’d been given, put a curse on the local miller. The town’s symbol today is a smiling baker holding a pretzel.