Introduction

Flying well under the radar of most travellers, Bela Krajina, the ‘White March’, is separated from Dolenjska by the scenic Gorjanci Mountains. The 600-sq-km region takes its name from the countless stands of birch trees here, and is a treasure trove of Slovenian folklore.

The sinuous Kolpa River is the main draw for rafting and other active pursuits, but the vineyard country north of Metlika offers up a more gentle activity: wine tasting. Tourism is a different beast in this far southeastern corner of the country – the well-oiled tourism machine of the Julian Alps or Soča Valley is nowhere to be found, and that, for some travellers, may be a key part of Bela Krajina's appeal.