These guys have been here since 1908, so they know what they're doing. Tenure hasn't bred complacency, though – the touts still try to herd customers in off the street, while frenetic chefs inside whip up delicious murtabak, the restaurant's speciality savoury pancakes, filled with succulent mutton, chicken, beef, venison or even sardines.

Servings are epic, so order a medium between two.