If you only try fish-head steamboat once, do it at this noisy, open-fronted veteran. Cooked on charcoal, the large pot of fish heads is brought to you in a steaming broth spiked with tee po (dried flat sole fish). One pot is enough for three or four people, and can stretch to more with rice and side dishes.

There are several fish types to choose from; the grouper is the most popular with locals.