It might be a canteen-style joint with shabby service and cheap decor, but who cares when the food is this good? Wash your hands by the sink at the back, and tuck into delicious set-meal thali, dosa (paper-thin lentil-flour pancake) or uttapam (thick, savoury South Indian rice pancake with finely chopped onions, green chillies, coriander and coconut).