Leave Smith St's revamped 'Chinatown Food Street' to the out-of-towners and join old-timers and foodies at this nearby labyrinth, now home to Michelin-starred Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle. You decide if the two-hour wait is worth it. Other standouts include mixed claypot rice at Lian He Ben Ji Claypot Rice and the rich, nutty satay at Shi Xiang Satay.
For a little TLC, opt for Ten Tonic Ginseng Chicken Soup at Shen Xi Soup. After 6.30pm head over to Smith Street Taps and Good Beer Company for craft and premium beers on tap – not what you'd expect in a hawkers centre!
Stalls are open from early in the morning, with lunchtime and 5pm to 7pm being the busiest hours. Most places shut by 8pm, however a few remain open till after 10pm.