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Eastern Serbia's Negotin region has been producing wine since the 3rd century and is known for native bagrina and začinak varietals. Its atmospheric 19th-century 'wine-cellar villages', or pimnice, are a unique architectural complex of stone wine cellars partially buried into the ground. Some are open for visitors and offer lodgings; try Pimnica Perić (064 1943 065), owned by the sixth generation of the same family.

Rajac village has the largest number of preserved cellars (196), followed by neighbouring Rogljevo (122). You'll find the compound on a hill 2km from the centre of the village. Don't miss the old village cemetery, with intriguing tombstones of unique shapes and ornaments, made of the same material as the cellars.

Rajac is located 25km from the town of Negotin, which is connected with Belgrade by bus (1200RSD, five hours, seven daily). There's a signposted walking trail (8km) between Rajac and Rogljevo. Contact Negotin Tourist Organisation for tours and accommodation.