Bus

Dakar Dem Dikk (www.demdikk.com) buses are a pretty good way of travelling cheaply. There are several connections to the town centre; fares cost beween CFA150 and CFA300. They're quite reliable and only crammed full during rush hour. Check the website for a detailed list of DDD routes. In downtown, northeast of Place de l'Indépendance is a useful DDD Bus Terminal.

More frequent but less user-friendly are the white Ndiaga Ndiaye minivans and the iconic blue-yellow cars rapides, Dakar's battered, crammed and dangerously driven symbols of identity. Unless you know your way around, it's hard to find out where they are going. They stop randomly and suddenly – tap a coin on the roof to signal that you're getting off.

Car

Most car-hire agencies in Dakar are at the airport or in the city centre. If you'd rather hire a driver, most hotels can recommend a driver. Though he doesn't speak much English, Adama Ba is highly recommended for trips in and around Dakar and around the country; count on about CFA35,000 per day, plus fuel.

Taxi

Taxis are the easiest way of getting around town. Rates are entirely negotiable. A short hop costs from CFA1000 upwards. Dakar centre to Point E is around CFA1500; it's up to CFA2500 from the centre to N'Gor and Yoff.