British in New Town

This bistro-style place uses cheaper cuts of meat (smoked ox heart, devilled sweetbreads) and less well-known, more sustainable species of fish (pollack, herring) to create hearty, no-nonsense dishes; about half of the menu is vegetarian, with tasty dishes such as Scotch egg coated with skirlie (oatmeal and onion). Service can be brusque, but at these prices, who cares?