Spend your first day or so in Kigali sampling the country’s finest food and learning of its turbulent past. A visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial is a harrowing introduction to the 1994 genocide but essential viewing if you’re keen to gain a little understanding of this tragic event. Next, head north to the stunning Volcanoes National Park for some mist-soaked trekking, golden monkey tracking and, of course, a close encounter of the gorilla kind.
With another week, spend a few days relaxing in Kibuye or Gisenyi by Lake Kivu, only a short hop from Musanze, before heading back to Kigali. To round out your Rwanda experience, check out the country’s southwestern corner, including chimpanzee tracking at Nyungwe Forest National Park and a day taking in the Ethnographic Museum in the university town of Huye (Butare).