Gisenyi is well endowed with stand-alone eateries as well as top-notch hotel restaurants, including Paradis Malahide out on the Rubona Peninsula. You'll also find a collection of atmospheric beach shacks along the lakeshore on Ave de la Production. They serve up plenty of beer and cheap food, with accompanying sound systems. For something more original, head to Calafia, the kind of bohemian cafe that most African towns can only dream of.