Podbelka

Russian in Yaroslavl

'Podbelka' is how Yaroslavl's first Soviet pelmennaya (dumpling cafeteria), which occupied these premises in the 1920s, was colloquially known to the townsfolk. In its post-historical reincarnation it's a hip, all-night eatery serving traditional pelmeni and vareniki (Russian dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables), along with many of their foreign cousins, such as Georgian khinkali.

In a separate room is a little bar with cheap (R80 to R100) beer on tap. Kudos to the owners for not turning their place into an actually authentic Soviet pelmennaya – they were quite dreadful, frankly. (That said, the smallish 200g portions do seem like a holdover from the bread-queue era.)


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