Totma was founded prior to 1137 (about a decade before the first mention of Moscow) and makes an intriguing short stop along the Vologda–Veliky Ustyug route. Though landlocked, this soporific, church-heavy town with unpaved streets and wooden 'lace' framing the windows of its fading historic buildings revels in a rich marine heritage, an anomaly explained in two attractive museums.
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