Inspired by the cookbook of Elena Molokhovets, the Russian Mrs Beeton, the menu at 'Molokhovets' Dream' covers all the classics from borsch to beef stroganoff, as well as less frequently seen dishes such as goose breast in forest berry sauce and veal cutlets in mushroom ragu. Whatever you have here, you can be sure it’s the definitive version.

Start with berry kissel, a delicious sweet soup of brambles and wine, and don’t bypass the speciality, koulibiaca, a golden pastry pie of fish or rabbit. This place is something of an institution locally and takes its food very seriously. Reservations are a good idea in the evenings.