Buryat in Ulan-Ude


An aspiring centre of Buryat cultural renaissance, the 'Horde' elevates coarse nomad cuisine to haute levels. Yes, it is largely meat with more meat and some onions, but the chef knows how to make lamb and even...

Buryat in Ulan-Ude

Baatarai Urgöö

This yurt complex in the Verkhnyaya Berezovka suburb is a great lunch spot after a visit to the Ethnographical Museum. Take a seat in the main tent and give your taste buds the Buryat treatment in the form of...

Buryat in Ulan-Ude

Shenekhenskiye Buuzy

This heritage wooden izba painted in a rather psychedelic shade of green is a local institution run by Buryats who have been returning from Chinese exile in recent decades. They are widely considered as keepers...

Grill in Ulan-Ude


A nationwide chain run by a national culinary show celebrity, Shashlykoff wins the battle for the hearts and stomachs of young Buryatians with the simple barbecue+beer formula, with homemade brew going as cheap...

International in Chita


Happiness (as the name translates) is when you find this oasis of neatness in the middle of a scruffy Siberian city. Soviet-style redneck patrons who inhabit this dollhouse of a place add a comic edge to the...

Mongolian in Ulan-Ude

Modern Nomads

Clean-cut and very popular Mongolian place, good for a quick snack and a beer or for a full-blown dinner splurge costing thousands. Meat features heavily on the menu, but there are many veggie-friendly salads and...

Burgers in Ulan-Ude


Lumbersexual butchers seduce Buryatiya with nine kinds of gourmet burgers, craft beer and their trademark ginger mors (berry drink). A nice place for a quick lunch in the company of gadget-wielding hipsters.

Uzbek in Ulan-Ude

Chay Khana

This high-perched Uzbek restaurant has a triangular cushion-scattered dining space, trendy oriental fabrics and a menu of exotic plov, grilled meats and imaginative salads. But it’s the spectacular views of UU...

Italian in Ulan-Ude


Hidden in a quiet courtyard off the main pedestrian drag, this lovely trattoria treats visitors to competently cooked, if standard, Italian fare as well as juicy steaks.

Cafeteria in Chita


This clean and modern Odessa-themed service canteen serves well-cooked standard Russian fare and features a WWI machine gun on display in the middle of the premises.

Italian in Chita

Mama Roma

Chequered tablecloths, glass divides, an English menu (!) and pleasant staff make this chain pizzeria an unexpectedly welcoming experience near the train station.

Italian in Ulan-Ude

Viva Italia

An 1980s Italian pop soundtrack, a long, ambitious and slightly overpriced menu of Appenine fare (stick to the pizzas), a European-style lounge and almost every tipple known to Homo-alcoholus – if you must go...