One of many Soviet-era giant farmer's markets, Danilovsky has been engulfed by the same wave of gentrification as Moscow's parks and old factories. With uniformed vendors and thoughtfully designed premises, it looks very orderly, if a tiny bit artificial. But it retains the flavour of a good old Russian rynok – a busy, bustling place, full of activity and colour.

Even if you’re not shopping, it’s entertaining to peruse the tables piled high with multicoloured produce: homemade cheese and jam; golden honey straight from the hive; vibrantly coloured spices pouring out of plastic bags; slippery silver fish posing on beds of ice; and huge slabs of meat hanging from the ceiling.