Getting There & Away
Lovozero is reached via a road that branches off the Murmansk-bound M-18 dual carriageway at the transport hub of Olenegorsk.
At the start of 2017, local authorities scrapped the subsidised Olenegorsk-Lovozero bus service, leaving Lovozero totally cut off. When we visited, the only way to get there was to take a taxi from Olenegorsk (R2000, one way). The 80km journey takes around two hours. There are shared taxis (R500, one way) but these are infrequent.
Olenegorsk is connected to Murmansk by frequent trains (R788, 2½ hours) and buses (R384, three hours). The surly staff in the nearby 24-hour canteen (it's intended for railway workers, but anyone is 'welcome') will sell you sweet black tea for just R10 while you wait.