Since the 19th century, bathers have eased their achey bodies into Sovata's Bear Lake. The warm, salty waters at this forest-hugged beauty spot, 35km north of Odorheiu Secuiesc, have long been famed for their healing powers. A couple of high-rise hotels, cashing in on Sovata's continued popularity, risk encroaching on the views. But overall, this spa town retains a nostalgic feel, with faded villas lining the road and bathers idling on lakeshore wooden decking each summer.
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