Introduction

Centuries-old traditions endure in this peaceful region of chalky hills and farmland, just off the Cluj–Oradea highway. Scattered around chief town Huedin, just north of the Apuseni Mountains, the 42 villages comprising the Huedin Microregion (or Kalotaszeg) are rewarding terrain for road trippers and hikers.

The Kalotaszeg is much beloved by Hungarian folklorists as a stronghold of pastoral Transylvanian Magyar culture. Experience it through immersion: stay the night in a never-changing village like Sâncraiu, indulge in Hungarian pastries, and learn woodwork and embroidery from local artisans.

The area’s namesake, Huedin (Bánffyhunyad in Hungarian), 52km west of Cluj-Napoca, is an unengaging highway town. Nonetheless, it has the bulk of local amenities, so it's worth pausing here to stock up on food, fuel or mobile-phone credit.