National highway 12C winds its way through the Bicaz Gorges (Cheile Bicazului), 20km west of Bicaz. It's a spectacular ride as the road cuts through sheer 300m-high limestone cliffs along which pine trees improbably cling. The road runs directly beneath overhanging rocks in the ‘neck of hell’ (Gâtul Iadului) section. A few kilometres west begins Transylvania’s Harghita County and Lacu Roşu (Red Lake), a pretty lake where you can get a bite and a boat, or hike around. The road continues another 20km to Gheorgheni via the similarly scenic Bucin pass. Note the season runs from May to October and things pretty much shut down in winter.